When approaching the hole from the fairway (over 10 meters from the hole), a medium range throw must be used. If the hole is clear of hazards and obstructions the throw is similar to the throw used when playing catch. There is however, one noticeable exception, the Disc Pole Hole cannot reach out or run after a missed throw.

Generally, every approach throw should be made with the intent of "holing out". How aggressively you "go for it" should depend on your score. If you miss on a firm throw, you may be faced with another approach shot instead of a putt. The throw that is safest is one that will cause the disc to pass through the catch zone of the hole while the disc is about to land. If you miss on this throw the disc should still be within 10' or 15' from the hole. This is called a drop throw.

Figure 1. Drop Throw - The safest “Go for it” approach throw.

There are several ways to accomplish a drop throw. The easiest and most controllable is a modification of the air bounce. Aim the throw beneath the target and aim the disc above the target. This requires a slight modification of the back hand grip. Shift the thumb so that the pressure comes off of your index finger and is felt by all of your fingers equally. The angle of the disc relative to the line of throw (angle of attack) can be easily varied by shifting the thumb forward or backward on the flight plate (top of the disc).

The stance should be opened up dependent on the power required to make the throw go the correct distance. Full power approaches are made with both feet on a line drawn from the hole through your lie. The left foot should be moved forward progressively as the amount of power is reduced. When you are within putting range, your stance should have opened up to approximately 45 degrees.

 

Figure 2. Stance and foot placement for an approach throw.

The drop throw requires a good spin because the disc is almost in a stall for the whole flight. If the spin is weak it may lack the gyro stability required to keep the disc flat through the whole flight. If the disc loses spin too soon it will generally take a radical turn to the left as it runs out of forward motion. The grip should otherwise be as soft as possible to avoid holding on too long or causing excessive hand drag at the time of release.

A disc thrown back hand that lands flat or slightly tilted to the left will usually hug the ground and stop with no roll. If it tilts right on landing it will probably roll and it is difficult to predict where it will stop.

The wind around the hole will have to be carefully considered before attempting a flat drop throw. If the wind is in your face, extreme angles of attack should be avoided. In fact, the more wind, the less angle required. Don't ever let the disc go with a negative angle unless you intend to aim substantially above the hole (described in more detail in "negative angle throws"). Too much angle may cause the disc to boomerang or fall off radically to the left.

Conversely, wind blowing from behind your line of flight will cause your disc to apparently drop more rapidly than you had planned, so the more tail wind the higher the aiming point, the more head wind, the lower the aiming point. You will also have to adjust the amount of power used to the velocity of the wind. As a tail wind increases, power should decrease. As a head wind increases, power should increase.

The primary reason for this phenomenon is the relative velocity of the disc as it is launched (leaves your hand). If you assume your normal approach throw would launch the disc in flight at 15 miles per hour and there is a 5 mile per hour head wind the relative launch velocity is 20 miles per hour. The ground speed is reduced to 10 miles per hour. The flying time to the target has been increased by 33 % ! If the power isn't increased the disc will surely land short, and of equal importance, if the spin isn't increased proportionately the disc will start to turn over to the right at the moment of launch.

If the same tail wind is coming from behind you, a 15 mile per hour launch velocity now has a net air speed of 10 miles per hour and a ground speed of approximately 15 miles per hour for most of its short flight. The disc is flying and dropping as if it had been thrown at 10 miles per hour. This will cause the drop rate to increase by 33%. This throw will fool your senses because, except for the radical drop, it looks like you did everything correct. It takes a lot of will power but the proper thing to do is aim higher and reduce power. The resulting flight path will look like a very soft lob shot with the midpoint substantially higher than the point of contact with the hole. Remember this throw if you have a down wind approach over low hazards in front of the hole. It is impressive even if it misses because if properly thrown, it will have lost enough relative velocity to fly and will therefore drop on the trajectory of a thrown rock.

Cross winds will move the disc in the direction the wind is blowing in an amount directly proportionate to its velocity and the time the disc is airborne. If the wind is perpendicular to your line of flight and coming from the right, the disc will move to the left. If your throw was launched at 15 miles per hour and the hole is 50 feet away, it will be in the air from 4 to 7 seconds.

Curved throws:

Hazards between you and the hole may cause a different kind of an approach. The left hand curve is the easiest to control, therefore, perhaps the safest throw except in a cross wind from the right. The amount of curve you put into the disc at time of launch will be the angle the disc hits the ground if the disc is stable (see disc flight characteristic section).

With a left curve, the edge of the disc that hits the ground first will 'be spinning the opposite direction to the flight path. When the disc contacts the ground, it will normally do a quick button hook to the left and lay down. The worst that usually happens is a short skip flight with a left button hook.

If you are forced into a right curve and are throwing a stable disc, launch the disc as close to flat as you can and still accomplish the amount of curve required. A disc with a RH spin naturally wants to turn to the right. Therefore, if you get the left side up too high it will land on its right edge which is spinning in the direction of flight. This will usually result in an uncontrolled roll.

If you inadvertently get the right edge up with the wind from the right, the disc will balloon and will exceed the velocity of the wind to the left, as its thrown velocity turns in that direction. Get your track shoes to retrieve this one. Conversely, if the left edge is up, the disc will drop like in a tail wind and will still be off to the left. If you compensate with more tilt to the right the disc can be thrown in a relatively straight line, but will land on the right edge and roll (in a 5 mph wind it may roll a long way).

If the wind is from the left, the opposite rules apply. However, if you get the left edge up it will again land on the right edge and roll. The difference is with the wind from the left, it will be under the rolling disc and may blow it out of the park.

A left curve will not come back as far as a right curve and will not make a straight, curve, straight flight pattern. The maximum curve resembles a "U" flight path and has very little glide in flight. Therefore, it takes a lot more power to reach its objective. With practice the disc will skip and pick up an additional 20 or 30 feet, but this is extremely difficult to control. Wind from the right will help, if it is strong enough.

In this case, the disc is launched close to dead flat with a slight angle to the left. The aiming point is 30 degrees above the horizon and just beyond the hazard. The disc, if thrown correctly, will appear to stall and the wind will blow it back to the left. This is a difficult throw to control.

Exception: An unstable disc, one that turns to the right naturally, is capable of a flight path similar to the R.H. Curve shown in Fig. 5 and is the best disc to use on a maximum curve.

Figure 3. Cross wind from the right with a straight throw. Use up to a 45 degree disc tilt at release.
Figure 5 and 6. Right curve throw for maximum flight after the curve and Maximum left curve throws typical flight path.

Upside down throw:

Another very effective right curve throw is a modification of the upside down throw. Start with a side arm grip and launch the disc approximately vertical with an overhand throw (like a baseball pitch). The disc should be aimed to the left of the target and aimed at a window approximately 30 degrees above the horizon.

The disc will turn upside down. As its forward motion slows, it will curve right and land upside down. On smooth ground it will normally slide between 5 to 10 feet. This is also an excellent throw when the only way out of a hazard is up. Use the same grip and overhand style but keep the disc slightly more than vertical at launch. The flight path will resemble a thrown rock and is reasonably consistent even with a fairly strong wind.

Figure 7. Upside down or tomahawk throw.

Side arm throw:

The side arm launch is a good approach throw, however, unless you are an accomplished side armer, back hand is safer and more controllable. There are times when your lie is located where you have no choice, so you should have a side arm in your inventory. Remember the flight characteristics are the reverse of a back hand throw because the spin is opposite.

Figure 8. The side arm throw.

The overhand wrist flip is a must when your lie is so close to a hazard that you can't clear it with a back hand or side arm throw and you need some distance. The point of launch is between 1 and 2 feet higher than any other throw and good distance can be obtained with minimum body motion.

Figure 9. The overhand wrist flip.

Rollers:

A few players use a roller on approach throws but most prefer a more conventional throw. A low over hanging hazard between you and the hole is what the roller is all about. A well placed roller will go under any hazard that is higher than the diameter of the disc.

The most common short range roller is launched backhand. The angle of launch is about 45 degrees above flat. A short snappy follow through imparts extra spin. The angle at launch should be high enough to cause the disc to hit the ground almost vertical and then fall over to the right as it slows down. Wind from the left bothers this roller the most. It will get under the disc and lift it into a right turn if launched at too high an angle. Conversely, if launched with very little angle the wind will just barely get under the left edge and act like a cushion for it to ride on. A side arm roller spins opposite and responds most to a wind from the right. A thumb roller has the same spin and is probably the most difficult disc throw to master.

As with putting, concentration is most important. Plan the flight path, focus, imagine the flight and if it hits the target, then throw. If anything else happens, stop and start over. If you have ever changed your plan in mid launch and hit a tree 5 feet in front of you, you already know how important it is to follow your plan. If you're in doubt, stop and re-evaluate your plan.

Relax. Accuracy is a must on your approach. Shake the kinks out of your throwing arm and hand while you are deciding on the best plan. Then place your feet in the proper position to accomplish the launch your plan calls for, then sit down 2 inches! If you are nervous, uptight, or tired, your natural tendency is to stand straight up with your legs straight. This forces your knees to rotate and they aren't built that way. Sit down 2 inches and your whole torso loosens up. Launch by plan and follow through after your throw is released.

Figure 11. The back hand roller.

Next Up: Teeing Off - Throws & Strategy of Tournament Play by "Steady" Ed Headrick.